A Solar Pathfinder

The Solar Pathfinder is a standard shade analysis tool. You can use it to find out exactly where the shadows will be at particular times of the day or year. The data is in graphical form, so you can make sense of it at one glance.

Another popular tool is the Solmetric Suneye. This instrument is rather user friendly, but is much more expensive than the Solar Pathfinder. This will set you back by at least $1,500…yet there is a cheaper option.

Why Do We Need To Use A Solar Pathfinder?

A proper instrument like a Solar Pathfinder can save you lots of time and guesswork. Moreover it is reasonably easy to use and is affordable.

If we do not have any instrument to predict shadow positions, we’ll have to sit up from dawn to dusk to observe how they move. This is a waste of time! Moreover, these positions shift (slightly) through different seasons because of how the earth rotates around the sun.

But why do we care so much about the extent of shading? You may not realize this, but the effect of shading is devastating to solar energy production. Even if your solar panel is slightly covered under a shadow, the power output can drop drastically.

Consider this…if you shade only one solar cell out of the entire solar panel, your energy production is likely to drop by a third. If you shade a row of photovoltaic cells, your electricity output reduces by about 90%. This means your solar panels have virtually stopped working!

Therefore when installing your solar panels, shading is your first and most important concern.

But is it worthwhile to use a solar pathfinder? Perhaps we should ask ourselves if we could determine shadow positions without the use of a scientific instrument… In fact, the additional electricity you’ll be able to generate quickly covers the cost of the Solar Pathfinder. This is especially true for larger systems.

After all, you’ve invested money and effort on your solar cells, batteries and inverters… Are you going to sacrifice a potentially significant part of its energy output just to save a few bucks? I hope not!

In case you are thinking of installing solar panels without a Solar Pathfinder, drop the idea as soon as possible. Because guesswork will eventually cost you dearly! You may be concerned about the cost…or you may be worried about the complexity of the instrument. The fact is this instrument only costs $249 and you’ll probably take only 15 minutes to learn how to use it.

Whatever it is, if you’re without a Solar Pathfinder, I’m confident of this — you cannot even begin your installation… Without this instrument, you’ll be lost!

To use a Solar Pathfinder, you simply have to bring it to the spot you feel is most suitable for installation. Then you’ll need to level the instrument and point it to the right direction with the help of an in-built compass. The plastic dome will show you a paranomic view of the entire area together with the regions affected by shading over different times of the day or year.

To record your readings, you can use a wax pencil (or grease pen) to outline the shadow or simply use your digital camera to take a snap shot. (I prefer the second approach – it’s instantaneous!)

The effects of shading are exceedingly damaging to solar energy production. Therefore you need to eliminate the guesswork — which can end up costing you a lot — and adopt a scientific approach to install your solar panels. Among all known techniques, the easiest and cheapest way is to use a Solar Pathfinder.

Continue Reading:

1. Solar Panel Installation
2. Do-It-Yourself Solar Panels – Electricity Conversion From Sunlight
3. Used Solar Panels – How To Use Them To Build Cheap DIY Solar Panels

Since the primary voltage used in an automobile is 12 volts, the solar panel you build will most likely be of this rating.

There are a few items you need to purchase in order to make this project:

1. Solar cells
2. Silicon caulk
3. Aluminum frame
4. Perspex cover
5. 2-gauge wires
6. Soldering iron
7. A piece of substrate

You can either use broken cells or new/used ones. What I recommend (if you have the budget) is to use new PV cells. This is because you’ll get the most power. Since an automobile doesn’t have a lot of surface area, you need more power per square feet for your PV panel.

First, you have to position the solar cells on the substrate to make sure you’ve got your spacing correct. Next, check that the PV cells are orientated according to the correct polarity.

Once this is done, you can flip the cells and start soldering them. Use 2-gauge wires or tabbing wires so the electrical resistance is as low as possible. After this, put the cells under the sun and test to see if you’re getting the correct voltage and current output.

Then put the PV cells back on the substrate again. Row by row, put a blob of silicon caulk at the back of the solar cell. Then paste the solar cell gently on the substrate. Do not cover the entire cell with silicon caulk. Otherwise you will leave the material with little space for expansion and contraction. When sufficient stress builds up in the material (glass), it may crack.

You’ll usually have to wait at least 24 hours for the silicon caulk to dry completely. Otherwise it will leave deposits at the Perspex surface. This will hinder sunlight from entering the solar panel.

Immediately after pasting your solar cells, you may want to take some time to waterproof the solar panel frame. This prevents moisture and rain from entering your PV panel. Thus you’re protecting metallic connections and components from corrosion.

Finally, you can also build a small charge controller into the solar panel frame if space allows. However this depends on what you want to use your solar panel for.

Continue Reading:

1. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 2 of 3)
2. Step-By-Step Guide To Build A 12V Solar Panel
3. Building a Solar Panel Frame By Using Aluminum Angles

These are some of the most important information you have to know:

1. Solar panels frame. Most commercial solar panels are made using aluminum. This is because aluminum is resistant to rust and is light. However solar panel frames can occasionally be made from stainless steel or plastic.

2. Backside Material. The most common material used for the backside plane includes EVA (ethylene-vinyl-acetate) and PVB (polyvinyl-burial).

3. Solar cells are made from 3 major types of technology — monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous (or thin-flim) solar panels.

4. The efficiency of solar panels depends greatly on the type of PV cells used. Environmental conditions also play an important part. Some of these include temperature, solar irradiance, angle-of-incidence and solar spectral (air mass).

Solar panel efficiency is measured in percentage. It is the ratio of output power to input power from the sunlight, which is the proportion of light energy that gets converted into electricity. The higher the value, the more electricity is generated.

However you must bear in mind that the efficiency of the solar panel is about 1 to 3 percent lower than what’s stated in the datasheet of the solar cell. This is due to several factors like reflection, heat and frame shadowing.

5. Performance factors. Commercial PV panels have to be rated for different performance factors such as maximum rated power, open circuit voltage, short circuit current, maximum power voltage, maximum power current, and temperature coefficients.

These are measured under the industrial Standard Test Conditions (STC). This means the solar panel is subject to a controlled environment where there is solar irradiance of 1,000 W/m² with zero angle of incidence, solar spectrum of 1.5 air mass and 25 degrees celcius cell temperature

6. Fill factor. This is the ratio of the actual maximum power as compared to the theoretical maximum power of the solar panel. It is measured in percentage. Commercial solar panels have a fill factor greater than 70%. The fill factor for Grade B solar panels ranges from 40% to 70%. Higher fill factor implies lesser resistive (series and parallel) losses within the solar cells.

7. Connector type. Solar panels must be fitted with output terminals that are weatherproof. Many manufacturers are also fitting their solar panels with lockable connectors to prevent untrained people from unplugging the panels.

8. Solar Panel Defects. Defects can occur on both new and used solar panels. Thus you have to inspect you solar panels before purchasing.

Some common defects include:

· Scratches on the frame and/or glass
· Gap between frame and glass due to poor sealing (sometimes moisture can get trapped on the inside)
· Significantly lower output than data sheet figures
· Significantly lower fill factor than data sheet figures
· Inconsistent solar cell colors

There are other important facts and properties you have to be aware of about solar panels. You can continue reading about them at part 2 & 3 of this series:

(i) http://www.diysolarpanelsworld.com/important-facts-and-properties-of-a-solar-pv-panel-you-must-know-about-part-2-of-3

(ii) http://www.diysolarpanelsworld.com/important-facts-and-properties-of-a-solar-pv-panel-you-must-know-about-part-3-of-3

Continue Reading:

1. Important Facts And Properties of A Solar (PV) Panel You Must Know About (Part 2 of 3)
2. Important Facts And Properties of A Solar (PV) Panel You Must Know About (Part 3 of 3)
3. How Do You Know If Solar Panels Are Suitable For Your Property?

How To Build Solar Panel

In Part One, we’re going to take a look at the materials you need to build a successful project. In Part Two, you’ll learn how to put these parts together to form a complete system. Different applications certainly need different design considerations. We’ll cover how to modify your design to suit particular applications you have in mind. In Part Three, you’ll discover how to push your solar panel system up a notch so you’ll have a winner in your hands.

Before I go on to explain the different materials and components you need to build a solar panel, I must take some time to explain an important thought with you: you do not have to be an engineer of any sort to build a professional looking (and working) solar panel system.

You however need to know some basic soldering and this can be learned in a short span of 5 minutes…flat. You’ll also need to start your imagination engine so you’ll know how you’ll be using your solar panel to power your electrical devices.

In case you do not have any DIY skills at all, you can always buy ready-made solar panels complete with mounting brackets and connect the electrical wiring from there. This will be a little more expensive, of course.

Now, let’s look at the materials we need:

1. Solar Cells
2. Plywood
3. Jones Plug
4. Silicone Caulk
5. Super glue and screws
6. Diode
7. Plexiglass
8. Wires
9. Paint
10. Battery

Solar Cell

Solar Cells. Depending on your budget, you can either buy new cells or purchase slightly damaged ones. Yes, you can certainly put together broken solar cells. However if you’re not confident doing this, my best suggestion is to spend a little more money to buy new cells from eBay.

Plywood. No matter how small your project is, unless you’re very skillful with woodworking, you’ll probably need 3/8” thick plywood. A very good idea that I came across is to use a sturdy photo frame (metallic or wooden one) and work from there. At least you don’t need to put in too much effort for the solar panel frame. You can get plywood easily from your local hardware store.

Jones Plug

Jones Plug. This is a two-pin plug that terminates the end of the wires that comes out from the solar panel so you can plug this into your electrical system. You can find these at Newark Electronics or sometimes at eBay.

Silicone Caulk. This is a strong, waterproof seal that is used for fixing household items like our bathtubs and kitchen sink. Your local hardware shop sells silicone caulk.

Super glue and screws. Some super glue is useful to hold the pieces together before you screw them down firmly. Again, your local hardware shop probably sells super glue and screws.

Wires. It is best to get those wires that come in a twisted pair of red and black so that you can be very sure of the polarity as you solder up the wires.

Paint. Choose paint with UV protection so that it can protect against the continual UV radiation beating against the materials.

Diode

Diode. This component only allows electricity to flow in one direction of your choice. This is needed so that your battery will not be drained into the solar panel during the night or when the sky gets too cloudy.

Plexiglass. This provides a protective cover over the solar cells. Plexiglass has various advantages over glass – it doesn’t break easily and is much easier to handle.

Battery. One of the most important parts of the solar energy system is the battery. It ensures that electricity is available to your electrical application when there isn’t enough power output from the solar panel (probably due to a cloudy day or during the night).

These are the components you’ll need to put together a complete solar power generator that can supply a small electrical application.

In next part (Part Two) of the “How To Build Solar Panel” series, you’ll learn how to put all the above parts together. Till then, get your imagination engine cranking so you have an idea how you’ll want to put your solar generator to work for you.

Continue Reading:

1. About
2. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 2 of 3)
3. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 3 of 3)

During cloudy days and when there’s fog or haze, sunlight becomes diffused and arrives at your solar panels from many different directions. Therefore the facing of your PV panels is not as important during these times for maximum power production.

Even during cloudy days, you can expect to receive about 50% of your original power output. When the sky is completely overcast, you should still receive about 30% of the solar electricity.

Even though light intensity drops during cloudy days, the reduced ambient temperature causes your solar panel efficiency to increase. Therefore the reduction on solar energy production is offset by the increase in photovoltaic efficiency. This is especially true during winter.

There are a few ways to get more solar power during times of low light intensity. Here is a summary for your reading pleasure:

1. Use high efficiency solar panels

Many different types of solar panels are available in the market. If your PV panels have high yield, they’ll naturally be able to perform better in any light condition.

Home solar panels are broadly classified into 3 categories: polycrystalline panels, monocrystalline panels and ribbon panels.

Polycrystalline panels are the best buy. Even though they are not the most efficient, they can yield as much power as monocrystalline cells per square feet due to their physical shape.

They are also not as expensive as monocrystalline solar cells. During low light conditions, they can provide as much electricity for you.

Each polycrystalline solar cell is made from molten silicon that is carefully cooled and solidified. Its manufacturing process makes it less expensive to produce than single crystal silicon cells.

Monocrystalline solar cells are made by cutting thin layers of silicon from cylindrical ingots using the Czochralski process. They yield more electricity than polycrystalline cells but are more expensive. Also, because they are round, they leave gaps at all four corners. This reduces the potential power output of each monocrystalline solar panel.

Ribbon silicon is formed by drawing thin films from molten silicon. This process facilitates a multicystalline structure in the final product. Although its manufacturing process is cheap and there is less silicon waste, solar cell efficiency is compromised.

Among these 3 types of solar cells, polycrystalline is most widely used for obvious reasons.

2. Use reflectors

Even though light is diffused by clouds and fog, they have a certain general direction. As such, you can use reflectors to get more light onto your PV panels. This method, however, makes your roof a little unsightly if the reflectors are not installed (or chosen) with good taste.

With this in mind, you can site your reflector some distance away from your house. As long as more sunlight falls on your PV panel, you can generate a little more electricity.

3. Clean your solar panels

Dirt, dust and leaf can block sunlight from reaching your solar cells. This can reduce your power output by more than 30%. Simply by cleaning your solar panels, you can have more electricity during winter and on cloudy days.

Cleaning your PV panels doesn’t take much time. All you need to do is spray water on it generously to loosen the dirt and wash off the dust and leaf. This will help your energy output by a huge margin.

Continue Reading:

1. Sizing Your Solar Energy Panels – Part 3
2. Solar Panel Efficiency — How Does Dirt on Your Solar Panels Affect The Amount Of Electricity Produced?
3. Important Facts And Properties of A Solar (PV) Panel You Must Know About (Part 1 of 3)

It takes a little skill and practice to harvest components from pre-owned or broken solar panels. Yet it is not so difficult that you cannot manage it with basic DIY skills.

You have to free the photovoltaic cells from the base it’s mounted on. After you have done this, check the solar cells for loose connections, broken panels, condensation and damaged diodes. Common problems such as these can potentially cause your solar panels to break down shortly after installation.

If the joints between solar cells are broken or loose, you have to re-solder them. Malfunctioned diodes can be replaced with new ones from your local component store. And if you see broken photovoltaic cells, you will have to source for a similar component to replace it — this can be challenging. Yet you can still make do with the broken cell in case your efforts to replace the broken solar cell fail. There will be reduced power output as a result, but this is not a grave concern.

The array of solar cells is usually mounted on a piece of masonite or acrylic (substrate) board before it is placed into a new solar panel frame. You can discard this substrate after a few years if you intend to replace the solar cells with fresh, new ones.

Using pre-owned solar panels to build DIY solar panels has its pros and cons. The most obvious advantage is the price. Used solar panels can be very cheap and some kind contractors may even give them to you without asking for a single cent. You are also less worried about breaking expensive photovoltaic panels while building your project.

On the other hand, a used solar panel’s lifespan may be significantly shorter. Their power output will also be a little lower compared to when it was new. A loose connection or a fault may hide itself somewhere that escapes your attention. As you build your DIY solar panel, trouble may spring up from these areas. However this can be managed if you’re careful in checking for potential failures.

Overall, harvesting parts from a used solar panels proof to be the best money saving method to build DIY solar panels. The only downside is the additional effort you have to put in. Yet as DIY hobbyists, we tend to take joy in such labor.

Continue Reading:

1. How To Build A Personal DIY Solar Power System With Less Than $99
2. Step-By-Step Guide To Build A 12V Solar Panel
3. How To Find Used Solar Panels

Inside a solar panel, there are several solar cells that are connected in both series and in parallel configurations. Therefore you cannot determine the voltage of a solar panel simply by counting the number of solar cells.

If you are handling a commercial solar panel, all you need to do is read the ratings from the datasheet. It shows you different numbers that are important…

For example, the open and closed-circuit voltage, the open and closed-circuit current and the power output under standard illumination intensity are some numbers you have to know.

However knowing these details may not be sufficient as the ratings are measured under ideal conditions. Your solar panel is subject to a different condition at the place where you install them. Therefore you still have to make a simple measurement using a multimeter.

Before you stick the multimeter probes on the solar panel output, recall the formula you learned in high school:

Power (Watt) = Voltage (Volts) x Current (Amperes)

It is not that easy to measure the power output using a simple current or voltage meter. But we can make a calculation after we know the voltage and the current output. (Multiplying these 2 numbers give us the answer we want.)

Each solar cell gives a voltage output of about (slightly more than) 0.5 volts direct current. This is true no matter how large your solar cell is. The only difference is the output current.

Thus if you have a 12 by 2 series configuration, you’ll end up with a solar panel that gives out more than 12 volts. This is ideal for charging a 12 volt battery.

(Note: To charge a 12-volt battery, you need much more than just 12 volts.)

Interestingly, if you break a solar cell into two halves, each of them will give an output of 0.5 volts. The only difference is the output current is now halved. This is why you can use broken solar cells to make a solar panel and it’ll still work.

Other Notes:

Your home solar energy system is made up of several pieces of solar panels that are wired together in an array. If you want their voltage to add up, you have to connect them in series. If you want their current to add up, you must connect them in parallel. No matter how you connect them, the total power output remains constant.

Continue Reading:

1. Important Facts And Properties of A Solar (PV) Panel You Must Know About (Part 1 of 3)
2. Important Facts And Properties of A Solar (PV) Panel You Must Know About (Part 3 of 3)
3. How To Build A Solar Panel Charge Controller

You must use the proper wire size so electricity from your solar panels can reach its destination (like your battery bank) without severe loss of power.

A simple calculation will help you decide what wire size to use. A common standard for wire size is based on the AWG (American Wire Gauge).

Step 1: Decide on the voltage for your solar power system: 12, 24, or 48 volts

With lower voltages, you’ll require thicker wires. Recall:

Power = Current x Voltage

The power output remains constant. Therefore when voltage decreases, current increases.

Using thinner wires means you’ll have to spend less on cables. However this is not a great consideration if you do not have long cables to manage.

Do note that whatever voltage you decide on, the rest of your equipment (like charge controller and inverter) will also have to follow suit.

Step 2: Determine the maximum current (in Amperes) your solar panels will produce

You can get this figure from your datasheet. If you have built your own solar panel, you can first find out the maximum output current of each solar cell from its datasheet. Then calculate the resultant output current according to how you connect the cells together.

After you have got the maximum current rating for one solar panel, simply multiply it by the number of parallel-connected panels you have in the array.

Note: If you connect the PV panels in series, the voltage adds up. If you connect them in parallel, the current adds up while the voltage remains the same.

For example, if you have two 12-volt PV panels connected in series, the output voltage becomes 24 volts while the output current remains the same. If you connect these two panels (rated at 10 amps each) in parallel, you’ll get a current output of 20 amperes while its output voltage remains at 12 volts.

Step 3: Estimate the length of your cables

Estimate the distance between your solar panels and your battery bank (or wherever you want the cables to run to) in feet. Then add to this figure by another 5% to cater for loops and tiebacks, if needed.

Finally multiply this figure by 2 because one cable will run to the battery bank while the other will run back from the battery bank. (One positive and one negative.)

Step 4: Determine the allowable voltage drop across your cable

Power loss and voltage drops are unavoidable. For your initial calculation, you can simply use 3% as an estimate.

Eventually, you’ll have to use your voltage meter to measure the actual value across your solar panel array output and determine what’s allowable.

Step 5: Use the chart below to find out which wire you should use

First, you have to calculate the VDI value:

VDI = (Current x Distance) / (% Voltage Drop x Voltage)

Then compare this value to the table below to find the type of wire you should use.

For example, I have chosen a 24-volt system that gives me an output of 20 amps. My cables will run a total distance of 100 feet, to and fro. My allowable voltage drop is 3%.

Therefore my calculation will be:

VDI = (20 x 100) / (3 x 24) = 2000 / 72 = 27.8

Referencing the table below, I should be using a 2-gauge wire according to the AWG standard.

Note: Your max operating current must not exceed the max current ratings as stated in the table.

Continue Reading:

1. Sizing Your Solar Energy Panels – Part 2
2. Sizing Your Solar Energy Panels – Part 3
3. Homemade Solar Panels — Common Mistakes to Take Note Of When Building And Installing Photovoltaic (PV) Panels

How To Build Solar Panel

In this part of the “How To Build Solar Panel” series, you’ll learn how to put the different components together. Hopefully you’ve already got an idea what you want to use your solar panel for.

We’ll use a 12V DC automatic door opener as an example…

To power an electrical system that runs on 12VDC, we need a 12V battery. I’d prefer using one of those maintenance-free batteries as compared to troublesome lead-acid types. And in order to charge the 12V battery, we’ll need the solar panel to generate about 18V. (It needs to be at least 5V above the battery voltage)

Connecting the Solar Cells

Each solar cell produces 0.5V. To get 18V, we can join 36 solar cells in series. Assuming the solar cells are of the same quality, a larger solar cell will produce more current and thus more power.

You should always ensure that the power generated by the solar panel is sufficient to charge your battery. Otherwise you may have to join more cells in parallel.

If you want to connect the solar panel directly to your appliance, you can simply make-do with 12V output from the solar panel. This is however not advisable for most applications…unless you need your appliance to work only when the sun is out.

Constructing the Solar Panel Frame

Next, we have to create a shallow box (as solar panel frame) for the solar cells to sit in. The borders of the box should be about ¾” wide by ¾” high. If this too high, it will cast a shadow on the cells as the sun comes in from the side. If it is too low, it doesn’t allow sufficient clearance for the solar cells.

Before you screw the pieces of plywood together, you can first hold them together by super glue so they’ll stay in place as you turn in the screws.

Putting the Array of Solar Cells Into The Solar Panel Frame

To get the solar cells into the solar panel frame, glue the array of solar cells onto a thin, rigid backing before placing it into the “box”. An example of this thin, rigid backing is a Masonite board.

We should give the rigid backing a few coats of paint before pasting the cells on. We must also apply a few coats of paint to the panel frame and dry it thoroughly before putting in the array of solar cells.

Connecting the Diode

Connect the diode at the power output of the solar panel. You should locate this inside the solar panel and hold it down using some silicone caulk so it won’t move about.

Placing the Plexiglass Cover

Before covering the solar panel with the plexiglass cover, test again to see that you’ve got the correct voltage and power output. Then carefully drill the holes (for the screws) at the border of the plexiglass.

Take care to apply moderate, consistent pressure while drilling so that the plexiglass won’t crack. Also remember to countersink the hole so that you can flush the screws with the surface, if necessary.

Attaching the Jones Plug and Battery

At the end of the wire that dangles out of the solar panel, attach the (male) Jones plug by soldering them on. Also solder the female Jones plug to the battery terminals according to their polarity.

Using a connector like a Jones plug makes it convenient for you to disconnect the solar panel from the battery if you need to.

And after hooking up the parts in the above manner, you’ve made for yourself a complete solar power generator that can power up your electrical gadgets — anything that runs on 12V.

In the third and final part of the “How To Build Solar Panel” series, you’ll discover how to “tweak” your solar panel system. You’ll inevitably end up with a world-class DIY solar panel running on steroids!

Continue Reading:

1. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 1 of 3)
2. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 3 of 3)
3. Step-By-Step Guide To Build A 12V Solar Panel

12V Solar Panel

It is easy to build a 12V solar panel if you know how. This step-by-step guide is designed to teach you if you want to build one but are clueless on how to start.

This article also illustrates the sequence to building a 12V solar panel so you’ll have the least trouble.

After reading the 5 steps, I’m confident no matter how confused you are, you’ll be able to move along to begin designing your first photovoltaic panel:

Step 1 – Source for solar cells.

There are a total of 3 ways you can get a solar (photovoltaic) cell — you can buy them, you can salvage used or broken solar cells or you can even make them.

If you intend to use your solar panels for long, I recommend you buy them. Although they’re more expensive, they yield more power and can last longer. Thus you won’t need to make another solar panel a few years down the road.

If you intend to make a solar panel just for fun, you can join pieces of used or broken solar cells to make up a complete solar panel. They won’t be the most professional looking photovoltaic panels around, but who cares, they’re just for fun!

And if you feel more adventurous, you can even make your own solar panel by heating up copper plates to form cuprous oxide, which is a form of semiconductor by itself. These homemade solar cells are inefficient at best and only produce microwatts of power per cell. But if you’re just having some fun are feeling adventurous, why not?

Step 2 – Soldering the solar cells

To form a 12V supply, we have to solder the photovoltaic cells in series so they add up to 12V collectively. While many solar cells are rated at 0.5V each, you’ll have to check its specification before buying and using them. Some may not rated at 0.5V.

With 24 solar cells connected in series, we can easily make an array of solar cells that produce 12V supply.

However voltage is only part of the equation. We also have to consider the current output of the solar cells. With the correct voltage and sufficient current, we’ll have enough power to drive the application of your choice.

Step 3 – Pasting solar cells onto a substrate

After soldering the solar cells, you can prepare to paste them onto a substrate. Many hobbyists prefer to use silicone caulk to do this. However you’ll need to employ the correct technique to paste the solar cells using silicone caulk. Otherwise the cells may crack just after a short period of use.

Step 4 – Put the array of solar cells with a protective box

After the substrate is done, you’ll have to make a box to contain the substrate. This can be made of wood, plastic or metal. Each has its unique advantages and disadvantages.

The protective box is done last. This is because you can then be flexible to alter your solar panel design if you need to add more solar cells to the setup. This will free you from some worrying.

After the box is completed, you can hold down the substrate in the protective box using blobs of silicone caulk.

Step 5 — Cover the solar panel box

Finally, you’ll have to cover the box with a transparent plastic or glass. This will keep precipitation and dew from destroying your solar cells and metallic joints. Many hobbyists choose plexiglass because it’s not as fragile as glass. The choice is entirely up to you.

After completing these 5 steps, your solar panel is ready to produce electricity for you.

Continue Reading:

1. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 1 of 3)
2. How To Build Solar Panel (Part 2 of 3)
3. Used Solar Panels – How To Use Them To Build Cheap DIY Solar Panels